Swipe the diagram sideways to follow the pipes →
cold
hot
Each dot is refrigerant. Its colour is temperature — grey means
it matches the room, and nothing moves. How full it looks is how much of it is
still liquid: a solid dot is liquid, an empty ring is gas, and the fill drains away as
it boils.
▲
Coil below freezing. Too little air over the evaporator, or a
setpoint the room has already passed — condensate is turning to ice instead of
draining. A real unit loses airflow and then stops cooling. Raise the fan speed.
●
Short cycling. The compressor is reaching the setpoint faster
than it can wring water out of the air, so it stops and starts. The room is cool but
still clammy — this is why an oversized air conditioner feels worse, not better.
Try the inverter, or a warmer setpoint with a slower fan.
●
Too gentle to dry the air. The inverter has throttled right
back, which is efficient — but a slow compressor means a warm coil, and a coil
above the room’s dew point condenses almost nothing. The room is at temperature
and still humid. This is the trade real inverter units make, and the reason they
ship with a “dry” mode that deliberately runs the compressor harder and the fan
slower.